I am new to ESP8266 and started just building basic devices using it. However I am using USB 5V wall adapter as nodeMCU has USB UART converter to 3.3V.
If I want to make it battery powered what is simple , small ( in volume so that it can fit along with nodemcu and sensors in a small case) and economical approach that keeps my nodemcu still safe?
-One option I can think of is to connect a Li-ion battery of 3.7V to VIN.
-Another one is to use bigger voltage and use a converter to convert it down to around 5V and then use that to connect to VIN.
Please let me know if this works ? else if there is any better option please do suggest. Also if you are referring to any items/products please help give the exact model numbers so that I can search on internet to consider buying them.
Lastly I am not much aware of electric circuits & terminology yet ( learning them), so please help explain me in basic terms possible.
Ps: this question was seen on stackoverflow some times but I couldnt find one single consolidated answer and am confused by it. Appreciate your understanding.
Thanks,
Sridhar.
This really would be better suited for the electronics sister site or a esp8266.com forum but for what it's wort here's my input.
IMHO the most convenient option you have is to buy a devkit with a LiPo connector. I recommend a WeMOS D1 mini plus a fitting battery shield. An alternative is the Adafruit Feather HUZZAH.
It can sometimes be a bit of a challenge to find the right connectors for those boards. Gotcha! different revisions of those boards might use different connectors. Currently the WeMOS battery shield uses a 2 pin JST PH 2.0mm.
No, you cannot power a NodeMCU using a 3.7v li-ion battery directly. A fully charged Li-ion battery outputs a voltage of 4.2v. The NodeMCU board has a (5v and above) vin slot along with two 3.6v slots. If you directly connect the battery to the 3.6v, it may fry the NodeMCU board. So typically, there are 3 ways you can connect the battery without frying your board in this scenario:
You can use a boost converter to convert the 4.2v output to 5v. Then connect it to vin. This will draw more current and battery discharges quickly (eg: MT3608 step up boost converter).
You can use a buck converter to convert the 4.2v to a steady 3.6v (eg: LM2596 step down converter).
Finally, the most efficient way is to connect a 3.3v LDO in middle. The difference between using a buck and LDO is, buck provides a constant and steady 3.6v output, where as LDO's output depends on the input voltage from battery (eg: S111733PI).
Related
Background
I'm very new to electronics/IoT dev. I'm trying to create a solution to be able to read my wife's Car's CAN Bus signal (messages) and store it to an SD card. I hope to analyze the data and build a dashboard based on the car's telemetry.
This specific question is in relation to a chip (STM32F1) on an IoT board (MXChip AZ3166) I already own, which I hope to incorporate into my overall solution as the data acquisition layer.
For reference the:
Chips is the: STMicroelectronics STM32F103C8T6, 32bit ARM Cortex M3 Microcontroller
and the IoT board is the: (MXChip AZ3166 IoT DevKit)
Reading the MXChip AZ3166 board's spec and after doing some research, I have found out that the MXChip AZ3166 comprises two main chipsets:
Vendor
Part Number
Ref Link
STMicroelectronics
STM32F103C8T6
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microcontrollers/1023545
MXChip
EMW3166
https://www.mxchip.com/en/products/module/54
Main Question
The product specification mentions the STM32F1 features Comprising of motor control peripherals plus CAN and USB full speed interfaces, it also states it has 1x CAN Channel. Does that mean I can interface the MXChip AZ3166 board featuring this chip via the GPIO pins to the CAB bus in my wife's car and receive the CAN Bus signals (I presume adhering to the
ISO 11898-1 CAN data communication protocol).
How would I find out which pins to connect to the CAN Hi & CAN low connections on the cars CAN Bus?
Concerning power, how would I determine that the CAN signal received doesn't fry the MXChip Board with a stated max Operation voltage of 3.3v?
Yes you'll want an MCU with a built-in CAN controller for communicating on a CAN bus. However, the CAN standard only covers the physical and data link layers. You need to know the application layer in order to meaningfully interact with a bus.
The application layer on a car may or may not be proprietary. It may even be encrypted. If you don't know what protocol is uses, then no can do. Reverse-engineering CAN protocols is hackish, hard and dangerous. Plugging into a CAN bus where you have no clue about timing considerations etc is also very dangerous.
But cars usually have an "on-board diagnostics" (OBD) port used for service purposes, with standardized application layers, through which you may have access to various parts of the car. There's lots of different standards for OBD and older ones didn't even use CAN. It depends on the car model.
In case of the OBD port the pinouts are standardized and you can find them on the Internet. Otherwise it is very simple to find out which signal that's CANH and CANL with an oscilloscope. CANH goes 2.5V +1V and CANL 2.5V -1V. A more hacky solution is to measure this with a multimeter, but it's perfectly possible since one signal with be slightly above 2.5V and the other slightly below.
CAN is standardized so if you have a CAN bus on the board, you connect there. In some cases there may be 12V supply wired together with the signal and that's the only one which could fry something.
Overall, please note that the project you describe here is very difficult and not a beginner task. It sounds as you have next to no experience of electronics/embedded systems, so I would recommend picking a far simpler project.
Furthermore, modifying car electronics or installing your own electronics in a car is illegal in most parts of the world. Third party type approvals with EMC tests are mandatory (and very expensive). If your car is involved in an accident and they find custom electronics without type approval in it, you could be facing serious legal consequences.
I am working on my thesis right now and i have to compare near field communication technologies (WPAN) which can transfer files.
everybody is talking how great UWB is for locating things and how fast it is, but there is no one (but apple) that used it for file transmission. But why? Its has a bigger bandwith then Wifi Peer to Peer?
Apple seems to use it for airdrop and both for android and ios there is an API to develop based on this technology. But it looks that its designed for location services and only work with specific devices for location. So I would not be able to use it for example to transfer files between iOS/Android and a Raspberry Pi in Near Field.
Can anyone explain me, if UWB can transfer files and, or why i should use Wifi-Direct instead of UWB if I want to transfer Files that are >1GB with the fastest speed (but without internet of course)
Thank you very much
IR-UWB is more popular than MC-UWB
UWB modulation schemes can broadly be divided into two categories
multi-carrier UWB (MC-UWB): used for high throughput data transmission, 480 Mbps
impulse-radio UWB (IR-UWB): used for localization, sensing.
I like software and I am comfortable writing lua code for nodemcu devkit. But I am not a hardware guy.
I need to setup the nodemcu so that it is a standalone module, ie powered by a battery. What is the best way to do this so that the whole thing is as small as possible? Which battery should I use(If I need to continuously run the nodemcu for 2 hours with wifi ON)? How to connect the battery with the nodemcu, ie any regulator needed?
Right now I am powering nodemcu via USB. I researched this in google, but couldn't find a satisfactory solution.
I am using this nodemcu devkit
Please point me to the correct forum, if this is the wrong place to ask this question
The easiest would be to NOT use that devkit but use one with a LiPo connector instead e.g. https://www.adafruit.com/product/2821. An alternative would be to use WeMos D1 minis with a LiPo/battery shield.
If you want to stick to your devkit you "just" have to make sure you feed 3.3V to the 3.3V pin. Since batteries deliver no stable voltage over time you need to place some kind of buck/boost converter (step-down/step-up) between the battery and the module.
You could of course also target the VIN pin which expects 5V but that would be less efficient if you used a LiPo battery. First, the external converter would boost from the LiPo's ~3.7V to 5V. Then the devkits internal converter would have to bring this down to 3.3V again.
Furthermore, if you feed the ESP8266 from batteries you want to pay attention to any power that'd be lost along the way. With the L7805 voltage regulator for example there is a constant 'quiescent' current draw of 6mA. That may be ok if your source is a power adapter but less ideal when it's a battery. Buck/boost converters are more efficient.
If you just need it to stand alone, would you consider using a phone charger? Just simply plug in the USB cable to any phone charger that you can find. That way it will provide stable power for as long as you want.
In case you really want to use a battery. Then you will need a 7805 regulator IC. This will step down your voltage to 5V. Then direct this to Vin Pin on the NodeMCU. I believe you should get 3.3V out of the 3v3 pin.
I'd like to have an iPhone and an Arduino-based device talk to each other. Here are the requirements:
I want to fully rely on iPhone's built-in components without any peripherals (for example, HiJack).
The less configuration before the two can communicate, the better. This means a WiFi-based is not desirable, because we'll need to set up Wi-Fi credentials for the Arduino beforehand.
Bitrate is not important. Only a few bytes are exchanged.
As cheap as possible.
I see that Bluetooth 4.0 LE (for example, Stack Overflow question iPhone - Any examples of communicating with an Arduino board using Bluetooth?) meets my requirements, but are there any cheaper solutions?
One thing that came into my mind is sound - the way Chirp used to share data between two iOS devices, but I don't know if is feasible on Arduino and, if it is, how much it would be. Any other solutions?
I can think of a few options:
Bluetooth, you can get a cheap one from eBay for about $10
Wi-Fi using Electric Imp (cost around $30), which is very easy to setup using the brilliant BlinkUp technique. See the project ElectricImp, control central heating via iPhone for an example.
Chirp is a brilliant idea as well. From a hardware prospective I see it is feasible to do in Arduino; you just need a MIC circuit ($8) and speaker.
However, the real challenge is the software side, i.e., the algorithm that you will use to encode data as sound and vice versa. If such algorithm requires intensive calculation, you might not be able to do it in Arduino, and you can consider using an ARM-based microcontroller.
Where would you recommend that I find a company to develop or buy a CD/DVD loading arm similar to: http://www.dextimus.com/
Preferably programmable via USB but if I only can get one with a serial interface that would be fine. Drivers dont matter - I can interface directly with the unit as my situation is very unique.
If you have some experience with electronics, you can give it a shot and build it yourself, like this or this.
I should add that the schematics and the source code are included, and in more details in the first project.
I suppose I might just shorten this by giving a list of resources first:
http://www.embedinc.com/ I trust this company to do good work. Expensive (actually, they are reasonably priced in the design community, but would be considered expensive by most hobbyists and individuals). Not great at people skills, but very very very good at what they do.
You should check out the various microcontroller communities and forums for hobbyists and professionals that can do this. Search for microchip, atmel, msp430, arm, powerpc, etc.
Sparkfun is a supplier to the electronics community - they have great forums where you can post your request, and you'll find people who might do it for fun with only the cost of materials. Might take longer, might not be as 'professional' or well packaged and delivered, but it might be your best low cost option.
There are many electronic design companies that could do this (for instance, I can do this sort of thing).
But there are many questions you haven't answered (and may not have researched) that could prevent success:
Is this patented?
What CD loading/unloading methods are not patented, are out of patent, or otherwise available?
What is your design goal - a one off just for you, or a device that can be built in the hundreds for industrial use, or a device meant for general office workers/consumers that is built in the millions?
Do you realize that this design qould surely cost mroe than simply buying one, if one is all you need?
As an example, assuming you don't need the nice enclosure and don't mind a 'prototype' look, just the mechanicals, electronics, and firmware design (no software on the PC) would likely be 100-250 billable hours for a design firm. At a cheap $90/hr, that's $9k to nearly $25k for one prototype. Add PC software and the nice enclosure, etc and you'll double that.
If you can find a local 'Make' group (techshop, GoTech, or similar) then you might be able to find a hobbyist that is willing to play with this idea for the cost of materials.
But if you define what your goal is, and give us an idea of your resources you may find a better answer.
-Adam
You can create a very nice simple solution using radio control servos. They come in many sizes, but even the small ones have enough torque to move a big arm to move a cd.
The real bonus with servos is that they normally have 180 degrees of rotation and internally have a variable resistor (rheostat) for positioning feedback. Positioning accuracy is normally within 1 degree of rotation which should be fine for a cd loader.
For picking up the CDs, nothing will beat a vacuum. I recommend a small battery powered vacuum cleaner. Funnel the suction into a 1/4 inch pipe. At the other end of the pipe a one inch diameter cup should provide more than enough lift from the small amount of suction.
As for the pile of blank CDs to be burnt, I would advise in moving the pile up rather than an arm down to it. probably having the top blank cd about 1/4 inch higher than the cd tray - By doing this, the arm only needs to rotate in one axis and the vacuum should be enough to suck the cd back out of the tray.
Now, for the electronics. For the servo control I suggest an rs232 serial servo controller. I've used the one from http://www.basicx.com/Products/servo/servo8t.htm as it also gives back torque information from the current draw.
For the low sample rate digital i/o, i suggest (for windows) inpout32.dll which is a dll to give you direct access to the bits of a parallel port. This will allow you to turn on the vacuum at the correct time and possibly sense when cd's have run out. Note that a parallel port can sink more current than it sources so for outputs you should connect to the 5v power line and set the output pin to 0 to turn on the output and 1 to turn it off.
The other nice option, which is very, very simple to interface and very cheap is to get hold of a picaxe from http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/picaxe/. These use a very simple programming language (a BASIC spin off) allowing you to read serial data in and control the servos and digital I/O on one chip. Last time I used one, the language was a bit simple - if statements had to jumped labels, else didn't exist.
If you do use a microcontroller and servos, it is best to use a dual voltage power supply as servos are noisy and can cause the microcontrollers to reset.
As for switching loads such as the vacuum on, you'll need to use a mosfet or (if money is no object) the simpler option, a solid state relay.
All digital inputs you use on the microcontroller should be pulled either to +V or ground with say a 5k resistor so they never float.
I cannot stress how simple and cheap the picaxes are. They have a built in interpreter so although code space is minimal on the small 8 pin units, they are programmable via a simple serial lead.
Good luck. Once you get into automation control, you'll never be able to stop. I'm in the middle of building a 3 axis CNC router so I can cut parts for other projects (I tell my girlfriend it's so she can cut out xmas decorations!).
You might want to contact Aaron Shephard about his Florian project.
I've found that a really easy board to control stepper motors or sorvos are produced by phidgets - the API is incredibly easy, and available for a vast array of platforms.